Home 120,000 hectares of Kerinci Seblat National Park destroyed Trouble lurks for Indonesia's "last paradise"
are built over the water at Kri Island private resort in Raja Ampat
located in eastern Indonesia's Papua region. Called the last paradise on
earth, Raja Ampat acrchipelago was nominated as World Heritage Site by
UNESCO because of its largely pristine environment which is considered
as one of the most important marine biodiversity in the world.
Photograph by: Romeo Gacad, Getty Images
- Huts on stilts perch above the coral of the turquoise lagoon,
hammocks awaiting a lazy siesta and sunset cocktails. The Indonesian
archipelago of Raja Ampat is a living Eden. But for how long?
remote pearl of Asia between the Pacific and Indian oceans in eastern
Indonesia’s Papua province has remained a closely guarded secret and one
of the last frontiers of tourism, known only to intrepid travellers and
Raja Ampat’s palm-fringed islands, surrounded
by an underwater kaleidoscope of coral and fish, are described by the
regional tourism office as "the last paradise on earth".
2002 report by U.S.-based Conservation International (CI) classed the
waters as "potentially the world’s richest in terms of marine
biodiversity," with nearly 1,400 varieties of fish and 603 species of
The 610 rocky islets of Raja Ampat - meaning Four
Kings in Indonesian - are sprinkled over an area of 4.5 million hectares
, boasting 750 kilometres of pristine sandy beaches.
the best diving in the world," said Pam Roth, an enthusiast for 33
years. "I like the remoteness of the place. You don’t see a lot of
people here," the 78-year-old retired Londoner said.
But trouble is lurking.
the Papua mainland, a thousand kilometres southeast of Raja Ampat,
calls for independence by Papua’s indigenous Melanesian population that
began decades ago have become more vocal in recent years, after
Indonesia’s turn toward democracy in 1998.
Tribal and local
leaders accuse the government of robbing rich forests and mines,
polluting water and land in the resource-rich region, and putting little
back into one of the country’s poorest areas.
The Papua region is off-limits to foreign journalists.
month eight people were killed in ambushes and clashes with police
after an ongoing workers’ strike at a gold and copper mine operated by
U..S company Freeport McMoRan turned ugly near Timika, a city in Papua’s
Because of the distance from the mainland, the
sparsely populated Raja Ampat islands remain largely untouched by the
troubles for now.
The small number of adventurers arriving
each year to the idyllic isles remain focused on diving and nature,
largely unaware of the problems of the region.
So far, the islands have remained largely protected from another scourge: mass tourism.
house only seven "resorts" (with three under construction), each with a
dozen villas at most. In addition, 39 "liveaboards" with a maximum of
20 people aboard each vessel, ply the waters.
In all, last
year Raja Ampat welcomed only 4,515 visitors - one for every 1,000
hectares - each paying up to $5,000 a week for a villa nestled in the
mangroves or a cabin in a traditional wooden boat.
But that could change, as the islands gear up to attract and welcome more tourists.
has been the main bulwark against mass tourism. With no air link, the
most practical way is to land in Sorong, the closest town, and take a
three- or four-hour ride on a wheezy ferry that began operating last
Signs of change are visible in a runway being hacked
out of the forest, where chainsaws clearing the way for an airport due
to open next year drown out the singsong of exotic birds.
road connecting the future airport runs beside a stunning, translucent
bay rich with coral that was once completely isolated but now is
threatened by the impending scourges of construction and tourism.
hope it (the airport) will bring many tourists from many countries,"
enthused Yusdi Lamatenggo, the regional tourism minister.
Jimmy Praet, manager of a company that pioneered tourism in Raja Ampat,
feared that "an airport will make this place too accessible: it’s so
remote and unique now".
Praet’s "Papua Diving," which
opened the first resort in the mid 1990s, rents a dozen villas nestled
between jungle and sandy beach or perched above the lagoon on the island
of Kri, to up to 34 privileged guests.
"If they want this
to be another Bali, the tourists will leave," Praet warned, referring to
the popular Indonesian island which is often seen as a victim of mass
"We do not want to compete with Bali, we do not
want to develop big resorts like in Bali," insisted Hari Untoro Dradjat,
senior adviser at the National Tourism Ministry.
"Quality, not quantity, is the goal," he added. "We believe in the protection of the uniqueness of this area."
number of tourists arriving in Raja Ampat is "actually still very low
compared to other tourism destinations, nonetheless there are already
signs of overcrowding on specific popular dive sites," said Mark
Erdmann, senior advisor for Conservation International in Indonesia.
important thing will be to carefully manage tourism development to
spread the pressure over a greater area of Raja Ampat and avoid crowding
on popular sites," he said.
He welcomed a new regulation adopted in July restricting the number of resorts to 20, about three times the present number.
May 2007, the government imposed an entrance fee of 500,000 Indonesian
rupiah ($56) for foreign visitors and 250,000 for Indonesians, with 30
percent of the proceeds going to the regional tourism ministry, and the
rest for conservation, education and health.
"Raja Ampat is
eco tourism not mass tourism like Bali," insisted Lamatenggo, citing as
proof the recent creation of seven marine parks covering a total of 1.2
million hectares, or 45 percent of the region’s reefs and mangroves.
But the government has refused to yield on development, despite repeated objections by NGOs in Indonesian Papua.
Erdmann said that construction was beginning to take its toll on the fragile ecosystem.
Ampat right now is already suffering from a number of ill-conceived
government infrastructure development projects, especially from ‘ring
road’ development around many of the bigger islands," he said.
is in fact no real justification for these roads, as the people of Raja
Ampat do not have any cars or motorbikes but rely on sea
transportation," Erdmann stressed, adding that the work is smothering
He complained that the government had
turned a deaf ear to calls for a system of public ferries to transport
people and goods, in large part because crooked contractors and corrupt
officials were pushing road projects, which were being built haphazardly
and with little regard for the ecosystem.
assaults on the archipelago are also coming from dynamite fishing -
which is officially banned but "still exists" according to Lamatenggo -
and from coastal mining projects.
"I’d expect they’ll ruin
the place," joked Helmut Hochstetter, a 60-year-old German, as he
prepared for a dive in the company of manta rays.
"Better then to enjoy it while we still can," he said before disappearing under water.
Source : http://www.canada.com/travel/Trouble+lurks+Indonesia+last+paradise/5749096/story.html
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